Wanted labels: Ann Demeulemeester

Next brand I want to introduce is like Rick Owens, perhaps not entirely unknown to the public. Neither is it very known either. If you ask a random guy fairly interested in clothes and fashion, chances are slim that he know of the brand Ann Demeulemeester.

She studied fashion design at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp from 1978 to 1981. As a result, she is often referred to as a member of the ‘Antwerp Six’, the radical – but all distinctive – Belgian designers of the 1980s (others in this group include Dries Van Noten).

Ann D is probably the most dressed up label in this series of wanted labels. She often uses jackets, shirts, pants, boots and hats in her collections. Often with asymmetrical cut to them.

She started her label in 1987 and introduced the mens line in 1996.

Like many of these wanted labels, Ann D has created her own universe. For a ‘high-fashion’ label the clothes have extreme longevity. Her clothes often seem to come from a different time and place, often with a romantic feeling to them. She likes to mix black, lots of layering  with an occasional pop of colour.

Ann D has a lot of very loyal fans all over the world…many being musicians.

“One such musician is30-year-old New York–based guitarist, keyboardist, and a whole lot else, Jamie Del Moon. On the outside, Del Moon is something of a model-turned-musician, but each season, for Demeulemeester, he flies to Paris to become a musician-turned-model. Del Moon first walked for the designer in her Spring/Summer 1998 show—it was, in fact, his first big show ever, as he was straight off the plane from his hometown of San Francisco. “Within a week of my arrival in Paris, I had the good fortune of meeting Ann,” Del Moon remembers. “The encounter would mark the beginning of a long and mutually inspiring relationship that continues to this day, with no end in sight.” Almost every season Del Moon has returned to work for his favorite designer and to be a part of her army of rockers and artists. The shots of his runway walks (seen here) record not only a teenager growing into a man (with obvious hairstyle changes along the way), but also the progression of Demeulemeester’s meticulous look, with one guy in particular in mind.” – Interviewmagazine

My favourite Ann D items have to be the coats/blazers, the oversize shirts and the fantastic boots!

Speaking of Ann D, one should also mention her spectacular shop in Seoul which was designed by korean Mass Studies.

And yes, it is real grass which they water and cut.


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